Ratatouille
French Provençal Vegetables
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A difference. Straining the juice from tomatoes that have been peeled, cored, and seeded makes for a richer, more flavorful sauce. The thought of cutting the vegetables into little matchsticks may seem like busy work-until you sample the results. The vegetables have more flavor, and though it would be a mistake to think of ratatouille as an "elegant" dish, the smaller pieces make for a more refined ratatouille in the end.
Chef Robuchon is opposed to disgorging (salting) vegetables, such as eggplant, with salt, a practice that makes for soggy vegetables. The tomato paste and saffron are optional boasters, to add according to taste and to season.
TOMATO TRICKS
A quick way to peel tomatoes is to core the tomato, pierce it with a large two-pronged fork and hold it directly over a gas flame. Turn just until the skin begins to crack, about 1 minute. Do not overcook, or the tomato will become mushy. This method to remove the peel is preferable to boiling the tomatoes, which makes the tomatoes watery.
A second method: Core the tomato and peel the skin with a vegetable peeler, using a back and forth "sawing" motion.
When halving tomatoes that will be seeded, always halve them horizontally so that you can easily remove all the seeds. |
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Ingredients |
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10 medium vine-ripened tomatoes (about 2 pounds)
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste +
1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
Bouquet garni: several parsley stems, celery leaves, and sprigs of thyme, wrapped in the green part of a leek and securely fastened with cotton twine
4 garlic cloves, minced
Freshly ground white pepper to taste +
1 teaspoon tomato paste (optional)
6 to 7 small zucchini (about 1.25 pounds), scrubbed, trimmed, and cut into matchsticks
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
3 small eggplants (about 1.5 pounds), peeled and cut into matchsticks
Pinch of saffron threads (optional) +
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Steps
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1 | Prepare the tomatoes: Core, peel, and seed the tomatoes. Recuperate as much tomato juice as possible, and strain. (If the strained juice does not measure 1 cup, add enough water to make up the difference.) Finely chop the tomatoes. Set aside. |
| 2 | Meanwhile, in another skillet heat 1/2 cup of the oil over moderate heat. When hot, add the zucchini and cook until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. (Do not salt the zucchini before cooking or flavorful liquids will be lost.) Transfer to a colander to drain any excess oil. Season with thyme and salt. Set aside. |
| 3 | In the same skillet, heat 1/4 cup oil over moderate heat. When hot, add the eggplant and cook until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. ranster to a colander to drain any excess oil. |
| 4 | In a large skillet, combine the onions, 1/4 cup of the oil, and a pinch of salt. Cook over low heat until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers and a pinch of salt. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes more. Then add the chopped tomatoes, stir, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. |
| 5 | Stir in the tomato juice, bouquet garni, and garlic, and taste for seasoning. Cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Do not overcook: The vegetables should be cooked through but not mushy. Add tomato paste. |
| 6 | Add the eggplant and zucchini to the tomato mixture. Taste for seasoning. If desired, add a pinch of saffron. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes. |
| 7 | Serve warm or at room temperature, as a vegetable side dish. Ratatouille will keep fresh, covered, and refrigerated for several days. |
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Yield |
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original recipe yield: 8- 10 Servings
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Notes
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Tomatoes are a key flavor. You might reserve the fleshiest chunks to add in the last cook step.
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