Dutch Baby

Old Amsterdam has a pancake house that can only be reached by a stiff ascent up a steep boat ladder. In a little room with a second-floor view to the street, a wild-haired chef makes these 'dutch pancakes' with all manner of toppings, savory and sweet. In the warm months, I'll serve this with berries; in the cool months, I love sliced apples and pears, cooked in butter with a bit of cinnamon and maple syrup.
Yield 4 servings

1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
pinch of nutmeg
pinch of salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons confectioner's sugar
1/2 lemon, juice only
fruit topping

1 Heat oven to 425°F. Place a 12-inch skillet with a heatproof handle in the oven to warm up.
2 Combine the flour, milk, eggs, nutmeg, and salt in a bowl. Beat lightly, leaving the batter a little lumpy.
3 Add the butter to the skillet in the oven. When it is very hot, pour in the batter. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the pancake is puffy and golden.
4 Dust with sugar and return briefly to the oven.
5 Remove, sprinkle with lemon juice. Serve with jelly, jam, marmalade, or even sliced strawberries, peaches, blueberries, or cooked apples and pears.

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