Ratatouille
A difference. Straining the juice from tomatoes that have been peeled, cored, and seeded makes for a richer, more flavorful sauce. The thought of cutting the vegetables into little matchsticks may seem like busy work-until you sample the results. The vegetables have more flavor, and though it would be a mistake to think of ratatouille as an "elegant" dish, the smaller pieces make for a more refined ratatouille in the end.
Chef Robuchon is opposed to disgorging (salting) vegetables, such as eggplant, with salt, a practice that makes for soggy vegetables. The tomato paste and saffron are optional boasters, to add according to taste and to season.
TOMATO TRICKS
A quick way to peel tomatoes is to core the tomato, pierce it with a large two-pronged fork and hold it directly over a gas flame. Turn just until the skin begins to crack, about 1 minute. Do not overcook, or the tomato will become mushy. This method to remove the peel is preferable to boiling the tomatoes, which makes the tomatoes watery.
A second method: Core the tomato and peel the skin with a vegetable peeler, using a back and forth "sawing" motion.
When halving tomatoes that will be seeded, always halve them horizontally so that you can easily remove all the seeds.
Provençal Vegetables.
Yield 10 servings
Ingredients
10 medium vine-ripened tomatoes (about 2 pounds)
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste +
1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
Bouquet garni: several parsley stems, celery leaves, and sprigs of thyme, wrapped in the green part of a leek and securely fastened with cotton twine
4 garlic cloves, minced
Freshly ground white pepper to taste +
1 teaspoon tomato paste (optional)
6 to 7 small zucchini (about 1.25 pounds), scrubbed, trimmed, and cut into matchsticks
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
3 small eggplants (about 1.5 pounds), peeled and cut into matchsticks
Pinch of saffron threads (optional) +
| 1 | Prepare the tomatoes: Core, peel, and seed the tomatoes. Recuperate as much tomato juice as possible, and strain. (If the strained juice does not measure 1 cup, add enough water to make up the difference.) Finely chop the tomatoes. Set aside. |
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| 2 | Meanwhile, in another skillet heat 1/2 cup of the oil over moderate heat. When hot, add the zucchini and cook until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. (Do not salt the zucchini before cooking or flavorful liquids will be lost.) Transfer to a colander to drain any excess oil. Season with thyme and salt. Set aside. |
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| 3 | In the same skillet, heat 1/4 cup oil over moderate heat. When hot, add the eggplant and cook until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. ranster to a colander to drain any excess oil. |
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| 4 | In a large skillet, combine the onions, 1/4 cup of the oil, and a pinch of salt. Cook over low heat until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers and a pinch of salt. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes more. Then add the chopped tomatoes, stir, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. |
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| 5 | Stir in the tomato juice, bouquet garni, and garlic, and taste for seasoning. Cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Do not overcook: The vegetables should be cooked through but not mushy. Add tomato paste. |
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| 6 | Add the eggplant and zucchini to the tomato mixture. Taste for seasoning. If desired, add a pinch of saffron. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes. |
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| 7 | Serve warm or at room temperature, as a vegetable side dish. Ratatouille will keep fresh, covered, and refrigerated for several days. |
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notes
Tomatoes are a key flavor. You might reserve the fleshiest chunks to add in the last cook step.
